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TOV Forums > Type R > > Re: Engine Oil Filter

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garoto
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Engine Oil Filter    (Score: 1, Normal) 09-10-2018 12:32
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Filtech: 15400-PLM-001 (this is what's listed for the regular Hatch)
Honeywell: 15400-PLM-002 (this is what's listed for the Type R)
Mahle Tennex: 15400-RTM-003 (this is what Honda seems to be selling these days, overstock bin crap or whatever)

What should I be using on my CTR?

I know the Filtech seems to be the "better" one. But that's upon visual inspection only. Who knows about flow or what now. The question is, what's the deal with Honda and these varied part numbers - how is one supposed to know what's better for their car?

garoto
Profile for garoto
Re: Engine Oil Filter    (Score: 1, Normal) 09-10-2018 12:51
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15400-RTA-003, not RTM.
Mechanic
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Re: Engine Oil Filter    (Score: 1, Normal) 09-10-2018 18:25
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Among the three you listed, there's no question -- in my humble opinion, of course -- the Filtech filter is much better constructed, has better media and certainly more of it.






Grace141
Profile for Grace141
Re: Engine Oil Filter    (Score: 1, Normal) 09-11-2018 07:10
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Mobil's filter guide page shows the Type R using the same Mobil 1 filter as most of the other Hondas so there is that. I like the Mobil 1 filters and use them on our cars. I've thought the Filtech filters looked durable. The mention of Honeywell is interesting because I believe they now own the Fram brand.

I think I'd buy or at least inspect in a store the variety of filters available before choosing. Purolator had a line of heavy duty filters which I used for several years but I did find one once which had an inner sleeve which was only partially formed as if the machine which formed it ran out of material. I've been in the habit of opening the boxes and taking a look before I buy.

rogazilla
Profile for rogazilla
Re: Engine Oil Filter    (Score: 1, Normal) 09-11-2018 07:59
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I made a habit of cutting open a couple before I decide. In the same brand but different filter could have different built. Once I decided on a brand then I stick with it but I cut it open after change to make sure they didn't change the built after a while.
garoto
Profile for garoto
Re: Engine Oil Filter    (Score: 1, Normal) 09-11-2018 11:39
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Sadly for me, and I know it’s dumb, I went for the A02 because that’s what they installed at the factory.

My understanding is that these 03’s are global overstock that they’re trying to get rid of for some reason.

The A01s Honda is doing without altogether. I have some left overs that I use on my FG2.

Why is Honda sticking to the A02s? No idea. Here’s how I know Honda is sticking to the A02s. Honda has been having issues with mechanics openening the wrappers wrong, resulting in pieces of wrapper getting stuck in filters and engines. So for their new filters, the wrappers are bigger and not tight on the filters. These only come that way on the A02s. So, they’re sticking to them.

Also, A02s seem less restrictive. The holes at the top are larger, and there are 10 holes rather than 8 on the A01 and A02. Not sure if it matters or whatever?

Anyway, I did what the factory did for now. When I learn more, in the next oil change I’ll decide. For actual oil, I used 5.7QTS of Honda’s Ultimate Full Synthetic 0W-20.

I’m sticking to Honda’s Stuff because that worked for me in the FG2, 310,000 miles and no real issues.

Engine didn’t burn a dip of oil in 8064 miles which is what took for me to get the maintenance minder. The oil was just brown not black, and it did NOT smell a bit like gasoline, unlike my CR-V which reaked! Yes I kept the original oil THAT long in the CTR: 1. Because Honda does have break in components in it and leaving it there as long as possible is a good thing. 2. Because I want to follow the maintenance minder. 3. Synthetic really does last longer.

BG
Profile for BG
Re: Engine Oil Filter    (Score: 1, Normal) 09-11-2018 11:51
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The CTR engine as well as the 1.5t are built in US, so it'd imagine it's just down to using local suppliers for the job at hand. We used to get Japanese made filter's from our Dealer but it's been a long time since and now we get French made Purflux brand OEM Filter.


garoto
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Re: Engine Oil Filter    (Score: 1, Normal) 09-11-2018 13:24
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BG wrote:
The CTR engine as well as the 1.5t are built in US, so it'd imagine it's just down to using local suppliers for the job at hand. We used to get Japanese made filter's from our Dealer but it's been a long time since and now we get French made Purflux brand OEM Filter.




Interesting. What country are you in?

In the parts list, A02 is listed as the filter for the CTR. While A01 (which they don’t make anymore) is what’s listed for the regular hatch. A02 though is what’s listed for the Si, which is also a 1.5T.

I wish Honda would be transparent about the differences. They might be experimenting and asking dealers to ship used filters back and such things.

BG
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Re: Engine Oil Filter    (Score: 1, Normal) 09-12-2018 05:20
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I'm in Ireland, and would hazard a guess that all of Europe is using the Purflux one.

I doubt very much if its experimenting, I would say most car makers use these suppliers with specific criteria for their brand/product and the parts are produced and supplied accordingly.

giltibo
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Re: Engine Oil Filter    (Score: 1, Normal) 09-13-2018 03:07
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Honda part numbers are usually significant only to the 2nd digit after the Model/Powertrain code. For example: 76841-TGG-A11x or 76841-TGG-C11x
If the 3rd digit is different, it's to denote a different supplier.

(The example is for a TK7 Windshield washer tank)

The A11 being the US-Spec part number, C11 the Canadian-Spec P/N

garoto
Profile for garoto
Re: Engine Oil Filter    (Score: 1, Normal) 09-13-2018 21:39
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giltibo wrote:
Honda part numbers are usually significant only to the 2nd digit after the Model/Powertrain code. For example: 76841-TGG-A11x or 76841-TGG-C11x
If the 3rd digit is different, it's to denote a different supplier.

(The example is for a TK7 Windshield washer tank)

The A11 being the US-Spec part number, C11 the Canadian-Spec P/N



To me different suppliers for the same part shouldn’t result
I’m a different part number. The thing is, that these are not only different suppliers, they’re also entirely different parts.

giltibo
Profile for giltibo
Re: Engine Oil Filter    (Score: 1, Normal) 09-15-2018 03:43
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OK. When you order a part from the dealership, the P/N is only significant to the 2 digits after the model/powertrain code (In my example A1 and C1). If the P/N is the same up to these 2 digits, they can be used interchangeably.
Yes, there may be a difference between, for example, an A00 and an A02, but it's usually because they have different suppliers (Like Honeywell (Fram) and Filtech in this case). If the P/N for the oil filter was a TK8 exclusive, the middle 3 digits would be other than PLM to indicate the difference.

garoto
Profile for garoto
Re: Engine Oil Filter    (Score: 1, Normal) 09-15-2018 20:09
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giltibo wrote:
OK. When you order a part from the dealership, the P/N is only significant to the 2 digits after the model/powertrain code (In my example A1 and C1). If the P/N is the same up to these 2 digits, they can be used interchangeably.
Yes, there may be a difference between, for example, an A00 and an A02, but it's usually because they have different suppliers (Like Honeywell (Fram) and Filtech in this case). If the P/N for the oil filter was a TK8 exclusive, the middle 3 digits would be other than PLM to indicate the difference.



I understand that they can be used interchangeably. And I also understand that they’re different suppliers. But when one supplier makes a pulley and a different supplier makes another pulley they are negligibly different, certainly not different in design.

These filters are designed entirely different, where they differ in quality, craftsmanship, and even function where one filter media is better than another.

But Honda is silent about those differences. I don’t think an engine is going to break as a result of using one over the other, but I don’t know that either. But so, does Honda not have say on what they want the design to be on their filters? Or they just say, “hey, sell me that shit for $0.10 a pop and slap my name on it for $0.02 more”

Grace141
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Re: Engine Oil Filter    (Score: 1, Normal) 09-16-2018 11:20
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garoto wrote:
giltibo wrote:
OK. When you order a part from the dealership, the P/N is only significant to the 2 digits after the model/powertrain code (In my example A1 and C1). If the P/N is the same up to these 2 digits, they can be used interchangeably.
Yes, there may be a difference between, for example, an A00 and an A02, but it's usually because they have different suppliers (Like Honeywell (Fram) and Filtech in this case). If the P/N for the oil filter was a TK8 exclusive, the middle 3 digits would be other than PLM to indicate the difference.



I understand that they can be used interchangeably. And I also understand that they’re different suppliers. But when one supplier makes a pulley and a different supplier makes another pulley they are negligibly different, certainly not different in design.

These filters are designed entirely different, where they differ in quality, craftsmanship, and even function where one filter media is better than another.

But Honda is silent about those differences. I don’t think an engine is going to break as a result of using one over the other, but I don’t know that either. But so, does Honda not have say on what they want the design to be on their filters? Or they just say, “hey, sell me that shit for $0.10 a pop and slap my name on it for $0.02 more”


I think the reality is motor oil and modern engines have improved so much over the decades the biggest factor for the filters is they must remain intact and not disintegrate. It's not like the '50s when filters were first being used when you'd see large blobs of oil gunk moving about an engine. If a filter is catching oil gunk these days it won't be the filter you're worrying about.

I spend extra money to buy what I believe to be high quality filters but I also know that's the main benefit. I believe they're better and that's what matters. It may just make the difference between an engine locking up at 500k miles and not 400k.

Makes me think of the mother earth news-style toilet paper oil filters which were popular back in the '70s.


 
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