From: Jeffrey Ho-See
Okay I finally figured out why the TR model decides to hiccup during cranking.
With a point in the right direction from Scott Stanley at Crane, he got me
thinking about the problem in a new light.
Scott told me to hook up the TR knob red wire to constant 12 volts
(instead of switched 12). But Scott offered no reason as to why it would work.
He just heard it helped. So on a drive home, I pondered the difference between
switched and constant; and why operation should change. DING! The light bulb
The problem : during cranking, SOME switched 12 volt sources DISAPPEAR!
This harkens back to normally open relays used for starter kill circuits
in alarm systems. For these circuits, TRUE switched ignition is needed
(12 volts that stays on during cranking) So when the TR knob sends no voltage
to the hi6, the hi6 applies FULL retard to ignition timing. That's why
the huge sputtering during starting.
The solution : For Hondas, you can tap into the red thin wire off the Hi6 unit
and connect it to the TR knob red wire. Voila! Solved! Do NOT hook up
to constant power (the LED staying on all the time may drain battery
or burn it out)
The installation manual did not specifically refer to true ignition switched
+12V. I'm expecting it to change. This is a pretty serious installation
I bought a cool looking Blue Anodized Crane Hi-6 CD ignition.
Actually, I was quite skeptical of any performance gains from the
unit, it just looked cool. The guys over at Robotek Per-4-mance in
Anaheim CA gave me a great deal on it + $40 to install it.
The install should have been easy, but there was an interference problem that we didn't diagnose till the morning after (no pun
intended!!) The white trigger wire is supposed to hook up to the neg
input on the stock coil but on the older car, it has to be done
outside of the Distributor. Don't ask why, it just works that way...
Any how, the idle is much smoother as well as the acceleration! Seat
of the pants impression says that the car IS A LOT FASTER!!
From: Jeffrey Ho-See
The Hi6 was really impressive at WOT. Part throttle improved, but not impressive.
Smoothed out the revving, but idle wasn't improved (mine's smooth already)
The PS92 coil helped a little across the board, but not as
impressive as the Hi6... I'm tempted to widen the gap to see
if the coil's additional power over stock can be put to use.
Definitely get a coil for forced induction/NOS...otherwise not absolutely
necessary. (The greater pressure needs more power for spark to jump,
which is the reason why turbo cars have small gaps).
From: Weyland Jung
I personally like the new CRANE stuff....it actually helped my
car idle MUCH better and it was WAY smoother throughout the powerband.
Be sure to use an external coil (ditch the stock coil) to maximize the
benefits. You have to remember that every little bit helps and actually
complements each other.
From: Walter Tani
I just installed a Hi6 and PS92. Wow, big difference
in torque and low/mid range power. Very easy install, to. Modifying the
distributor cap took longer than installing both the HI6 and PS92. But
if you get a high tension wire from MSD, they sell about a 12" section
with 90 degree boots at both ends (to go from your coil to the ignition
tower on the distributor cap). Since we Honda's don't have the ignition
tower, this kit is great since it comes with a tower that is about 2 or
3" long, and has a through-bolt down the middle. You drill out the
boss on your existing distributor cap, plunk the tower onto it and bolt it down,
and presto, you can now use external coil with your GSR ignition. Since
I got the PS92, I just removed the stock coil and made the ignition and
trigger connection to the HI6.