Last Updated: 06/23/97
From: Dan Ponze
pretty much wore out the factory clutch of my 95 GSR at 58,000 miles, when I
popped a spring on it. The fast clutch wear was no doubt aided by the fact that
the engine is nowhere near stock and thus causing the factory clutch to slip
excessively. Word to the wise. Don't dump the factory clutch if you have a DPR
stage VI head. It will incinerate it. I've been hearing good things from
Clutchmasters and since the assembly is Honda original, I felt much better about
fitament issues. I chose the stage II clutch which has the carbon-kevlar facing
on it but is single diaphragm. This is more than sufficient unless you're
running turbo, supercharger, or NOS. The bad part is that it takes a long time
to break in properly. 1000 miles of city driving was covered relatively quickly
in Chicago but I suspect it would take much longer in other less populated,
traffic congested areas. Once broken in the grip was intense. I dumped it at
5000 RPM, it just grabbed with no problem. Driveability is excellent and it
feels just like the factory one in every respect. Take up is smooth and pedal
effort is identical to factory. Spinning the tires in second gear is no problem
at all. For N/A setups, I highly recommend this clutch. On a side note,
Clutchmasters sent me the wrong throw-out bearing and aluminum flywheel. Once
notified of the problem, they assured me that one would go out that day, but it
actually went out a day after that. When I called back they simply told me that
it didn't go out for some unknown reason. Mistakes do happen, but two mistakes?
They have to get their act together. In all fairness, though, they did pay for
red label shipping and for return of the wrong part. Regardless of this
oversight, service was polite and knowledgeable. I would do business with them
again, but I would double check to make sure the parts are the right ones.
I purchased my aluminum flywheel from
Clutchmasters at the same time as my Stage II clutch. They originally sent me
the wrong one, but they remedied the problem. This is not the lightest flywheel
you can get, but at 9 lbs. it is about half of the approximately 18 lb factory
one. OLM-R has one that weighs just 6 lbs, but that merely has a friction
coating on it. The Clutchmasters has a full metal face on it which can be
replaced cheaper and easier than balancing and resurfacing your factory one. I
think they run about $40 for a new one. The difference was night and day.
Driveability was vastly improved and it revs much easier now. Timing downshifts
takes a little getting used to not only because it revs easier but also because
the revs drop so much faster now, when you let up on the gas. You have to be
more precise with your timing. Around town, the difference was fantastic. I'm
not sure of any horsepower gains, but torque didn't suffer to any noticeable
degree. I highly recommend this modification for all Integra drivers, even those
that haven't modified their engines at all. If Honda were smart, they'd make all
their flywheels this way. One note, however, Clutchmasters does require you to
send in your original, so don't let the shop throw it away. I guess they need
the bearings from it.
Dynamic Double-D ClutchFrom: Weyland Jung
What makes this different from other clutches on
the market? The pressure plate offers a double diaphragm which causes about twice
the clamping power over your stock one. And depending on the size of your
clutch disk, you can either get a full face disk or a multi-puck one. I have
been using this clutch for over 1 year with heavy nitrous application and it has
yet to slip. When my friend, a fellow nitrous user, pulled the Double-D clutch
out of his car after about a year and a half, it almost looked like it was brand
new. These clutches are also very cost effective, as most setups will run only
$250-300 (The only catch is that you must return your old beat up one). One
thing that might bother people is an increased pedal effort....if any of you
have driven a Mustang, then you'll know how it feels.
Gude Performance ClutchFrom: Tim Kelly
Tim Kelly is a former contributing writer
to Sport Compact Car magazine.
my 94 GS-R threw a spring from its clutch
with only 25k miles. when we took it apart, the disc was only half worn but
ruined because one spring had come out and another was on its way out. i put in
a Gude performance 4 puck semi metallic clutch with no springs. that clutch was
awesome and grabbed so hard and fast it took quite a bit of getting used to,
especially because it has no springs to absorb driveline shock. my problem now
is that i think the guy who put in didn't really know his Hondas too well
because it's slipping at low RPMs. it grips great past 3500 rpm but below that
it really likes to slip when you get on the gas. so now i have to replace it and
Gude is sending a Kevlar unit to try. i also have a mechanic who i know can do
the job. but all this is the reason for doing the story. i wanted more info on
clutches and since I'm going to get it, i figured it would be a good one to
write about as well..........
Have new clutch in the car. Wallace Wong is 100% right about how the Gude
clutch hooks up but that's a real performance clutch. On the phone everyone
talks how they want the toughest and the fastest and the most horsepower, so
Gude sends them it. So, I talked to Gude about the engagement problem and he
suggested either his Kevlar disc or the same semi-metallic but with one of his
spring kits which he guarantees won't pop out. he says the Kevlar is nice to the
flywheel and the p.p. but doesn't wear any better than stock. so I got the semi
metallic one with the spring kit. Gude also got me a remade pressure plate
that's 25% stiffer. the '92 and up Civics and '94 and up Integras have removable
fingers on their pressure plates, that's how it's stiffer. before this, you
couldn't do anything but add a second set of fingers like the dynamic clutch.
Which all by itself isn't any better, it just puts more pressure on the clutch
disc to between it and the flywheel and p.p. Weyland probably wouldn't have any
trouble with a factory disc and the doubled pressure plate but he does need
quite a bit more `leg' to make it work.
Anyway, I helped with the install this time and we followed the factory
manual for pedal adjustment (this is no doubt what caused the last one to fail
so soon, it must be checked on the newer cars with hydraulic assist) and while
it picks up a bit later in the travel, it's 10 times better than the same disc
without the spring kit. it grabs a bit quicker than stock, but it's still no
trouble at all starting smoothly even with the A/C on and there's no change
whatsoever in pedal effort.
After a month of time on the semi metallic with the spring kit, it has broken
in nicely now and I can dump the clutch from idle and with a little jerk it
hooks up and goes off just like a stock clutch. The best part of it, however, is
the 3rd gear chirps that are now possible because the clutch grabs ASAP even
when the 2nd to 3rd gear change puts the revs at 6000.
The moral of the story is to remember that most of us drive our cars on the
same roads in the same fashion as everyone else 90% of the time. A 2.5" drop
looks awesome, but living with it in "huge curb" southern Cali is another story.
Same thing with a clutch that was designed to hook up "now". All the others are
basically just mods of the pressure plate. Not even the dual friction
Centerforce is the same because it's only semi metallic on one side.
The best bet for the newest Integras is to get a clutch disc with a spring
kit, it makes all the difference in the world. Or since you can now remove and
re-temper the fingers on those pressure plates, just get one with more clamping
force, there's no extra effort because of the hydraulic unit.
i also got a reply back from Wallace, and he had the same springless disc.
seems as though bill Gude thinks everyone wants to go racing so when people call
and ask for the best, he gives it to them. i told him some of the problems he
was creating and there shouldn't be any more mix-ups like that. engineers usually
aren't good sales people. FYI - Tilden or Tilton, makes the same type of
clutches as Gude and can do the same thing with the newer pressure plates and
can also put just about any friction material on the surface of the clutch
pucks. this includes a ceramic material that handles incredible amounts of hp.
Tilton says he's sold a couple to guys with the twin turbo Zs that run 12 second
Centerforce ClutchMy friend has this on a Nissan 240SXSE. Also on the
car is a lightened fly-wheel that is a good 8 pounds lighter than stock! Though
the engine is not as flexible as the GS-R VTEC, with the lightened flywheel, it
was an entirely different beast. It revved so easily from idle or any RPM for
that matter. Throttle response was incredible. Taming this quick revver was the
Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch. Installation was relatively straight-forward
with the clutch fitting just right. Remember to not touched the abrasive part of
the clutch with your fingers or hands. You don't want to get that part dirty at
Imagine trying to engage the clutch and hoping it would grab as you blip the
throttle for a fast launch. The engine can spin the flywheel up so fast, but the
Centerforce was able to hold on tight. Pedal pressure was exactly the same as
the stock. Since this clutch comes with springs installed, drive- line shock was
kept to a minimum. I suspect that if the fly-wheel was NOT lightened, you would
feel a bit more engagement shock than the stock clutch.
Remember to always break in the clutch before you go out and do some hard
launches. Since the surface of the clutch is still new, it won't grab as well
and therefore will heat up faster due to the slipping. This heat can destroy the
new clutch. So take it easy for the first 500 miles to be safe. This well ensure
that the clutch will last a long time even with many hard launches down the
RPS Turbo ClutchI heard lots of good things about this clutch. However,
I've had no firsthand experience with it. Turbo Magazine reports that the RPS
clutch was still in good shape after doing around 100 runs in a nitrous equipped
Integra. They showed it next to a new stock clutch, and the RPS Turbo clutch
looked like it still have lots of miles left on it.
From: Wallace Wong
I have a 93 GS-R and I
tried the Gude clutch before the Turbo. The Gude clutch grabs great, really
strong off the line and excellent grip, but I don't think I would recommend it
for street driving. There is just too much jitter when the clutch engages and
believe me, when it engages, it just ENGAGES! I only had the Gude clutch in
about 3 months and it was completely wore down to the rivets when I removed it.
The clutch was still grabbing pretty well even with out the asbestos, but it did
a number on the flywheel.
The Turbo Clutch has been in now for about 2 weeks. I love it. It feels just
like the stock clutch. The pedal is light and it engages smoothly. The only
that's not stock about it is how well it grabs. It is a very impressive clutch
and I am completely happy with the performance and driveability of this unit.