Double J
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So we decided to do a little tune up on our HRR 216 push mower. We pulled out the original spark plug which was a NGK BPR6ES and did a little research before ordering a new plug. It turns out that the plugs for a 00-04 Subaru Legacy Outback are the same. We decided to upgrade to a NGK Iridium plug (sorry can't remember the model). It now has alot less smoke and runs like a champ. Hopefully it runs cleaner now. Just an FYI.
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P54
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Double J wrote:
So we decided to do a little tune up on our HRR 216 push mower. We pulled out the original spark plug which was a NGK BPR6ES and did a little research before ordering a new plug. It turns out that the plugs for a 00-04 Subaru Legacy Outback are the same. We decided to upgrade to a NGK Iridium plug (sorry can't remember the model). It now has alot less smoke and runs like a champ. Hopefully it runs cleaner now. Just an FYI.
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The iridium plug would be BPR6EIX. How old is it since you say it smokes a lot less? My Honda lawnmower Harmony 215 that is about 14 years old still have no smoke whatsoever. And it has worked hard, not only lawn-care but also in the field and along fence-lines.
Since you did a tune up did you check the air filter and change the oil? Do you have smoke from running rich (dirty air filter) or smoke from worn engine/oil? If it smokes you have a problem.
To avoid starting problems after storage or gummed up carburetor it is a good habit to always mix in some fuel stabilizer (sta-bil or star-tron) whenever you by gas. It makes the engine run better too.
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Double J
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You know what I'm not sure why it smokes so much. It could be because I didn't stabilize the gas this year but then again I try to run it dry before storage. The mower is only about 7 years old but it smoked. It could have something to do with stale gas. The old plug was not in good shape when we pulled it out but the mower is well taken cared of. The filter is clean and using 5-20 synthetic but that is because the temperature is not that hot here.
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kidoairaku
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how often are you replacing your oil and sparkplugs?
I know it says annually but it really needs to be once every few years. My Honda mower has never smoked, although I've been doing oil changes and spark plugs every 2 years. I also use the same gas my car uses which happens to be premium. (fill the car and the jerry can at the same time)
I've wondered what would happen if I used synthetic and a platinum or iridium spark plug.
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Grace141
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My Honda mower burns a little oil on startup but it's 20 years old this year. I add about an ounce of oil after every three hours of use or so. No complaints there. Also, the owner's manual recommends straight 30W oil. Does Honda recommend synthetic in the newer mowers? I have my eye on the top-o-the-line new one so it'd be good to know.
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P54
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Double J wrote:
You know what I'm not sure why it smokes so much. It could be because I didn't stabilize the gas this year but then again I try to run it dry before storage. The mower is only about 7 years old but it smoked. It could have something to do with stale gas. The old plug was not in good shape when we pulled it out but the mower is well taken cared of. The filter is clean and using 5-20 synthetic but that is because the temperature is not that hot here.
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Who told you to use 5-20 synthetic. I do not think Honda recommend that. If it was me I would dump that oil and if you have to use synthetic I would use 10W-30 (Mobil 1) or Honda synthetic motorcycle oil 10w-30. Common practice for years among lawn mowers was to use 30 oil on Briggs engines. I do not recommend that on Honda engines. I have seen oil seals been blown out due to high oil pressure when starting the engine in colder temperatures. I have for years used the Honda motorcycle oil GN 4 10W-40 in Honda power equipment as that oil contain a lot more additives against wear than normal car oils. Lately I have been using Mobil 1 EXTENDED PERFORMANCE 10W-30 for once a year oil replacement. I would never use synthetic on a brand new engine, rings seem to break in faster and better on mineral oil. Some of the engines contain as little as 0.1 qt. of oil, others 0.6 qt. to 1.1 qt. New equipment is costly and using the best oil available when we talk about such small quantities is not going to cost you much, but will benefit the engine and your peace of mind. With such small quantity of oil I see no reason to go beyond 1 year on a change, rather twice a year if using non synthetic.
Bad, old stale gas can cause problems and premium is told not to contain ethanol and hence cause less problems. Regular cost less, however the fuel used I guess will not affect your budget. I always pour Sta-Bil in the can right before I fill gas in the can. Wal-Mart seems to be cheapest for a qt. bottle. Have also lately used Star-Tron and gas seems to perform better. Treated gas starts better, idles better perform better and gas last longer. Should always treat ethanol gas.
You say you always let it run dry, that is good , however that is not enough to avoid plugged up jets. After running dry, use choke (close position) and pull the rope as attempting to start the engine. Usually it fires up briefly and then dies. Pull again. That will suck the remaining gas out from the jet to prevent jets to be clogged under storage.
Iridium plugs will fire up easier and idle better, especially on a cold engine. Will have a better spark.
You say you use 5W20 because temperatures are not hot where you live, however that is going to the extreme, even using winter equipment like snow blowers you will be fine with 5W-30 at minus 30. Doubt you are mowing grass in those conditions. Get rid of the 5W20 in your lawn mower.
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Double J
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My apologies when I said smoke I did not mean extremely but just a bit. There is no problem with the engine it just runs alot better now with no visible smoke at all.
I haven't seen a need to change the plug before because by my inspection it looked fine. The last time I spoke with a gentleman from NGK he was surprised when I told him the intervals that I change my Iridium plugs in my car. He told me that those plugs are good for 150,000-200,000kms. I am quite confident that the plug in the mower will last for years to come but I will just inspect it periodically. Where I live there is no ethanol in regular gasoline unless otherwise stated that I'm aware of.
In the manual it says to use 5w-30 and from what I recall it says there is some leeway depending on operating conditions. I decided to run 5w-20 because it rarely goes above 30C here. The engine is broken in so I chose to use synthetic since that's what I had at my disposal. I haven't used Mobil1 for many years now since there are better alternatives on the market. I've seen timkin bearing tests that proved it to me. I know that a timkin test is not the end all and be all but it says enough for me.
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P54
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Double J wrote:
My apologies when I said smoke I did not mean extremely but just a bit. There is no problem with the engine it just runs alot better now with no visible smoke at all.
I haven't seen a need to change the plug before because by my inspection it looked fine. The last time I spoke with a gentleman from NGK he was surprised when I told him the intervals that I change my Iridium plugs in my car. He told me that those plugs are good for 150,000-200,000kms. I am quite confident that the plug in the mower will last for years to come but I will just inspect it periodically. Where I live there is no ethanol in regular gasoline unless otherwise stated that I'm aware of.
In the manual it says to use 5w-30 and from what I recall it says there is some leeway depending on operating conditions. I decided to run 5w-20 because it rarely goes above 30C here. The engine is broken in so I chose to use synthetic since that's what I had at my disposal. I haven't used Mobil1 for many years now since there are better alternatives on the market. I've seen timkin bearing tests that proved it to me. I know that a timkin test is not the end all and be all but it says enough for me.
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According to Honda they recommend 10W-30 on your engine, the 5W or 10W numbers refer to viscosity at cold engine and 5W used to be for minus 30 degrees. The 20,30 or 40 is for hot engine. Your engine is not designed for running 20 oil and if you burn oil I would switch to 10W30. 30C is hot enough to validate 10W30 or even 10W 40. According to Honda they recommend 5W 30 from 0C and down to 30C BELOW. 5W20 is a very thin oil for use in a summer product and the car engines using that oil have been especially designed for it. Your engine has not.
Do not choose oil from one test, there is more to oil than that. Some companies try to sell special oils or additives by promoting special test that make it seem their oil is superior. It is all false advertising trying to convince people a certain oil is better based on a special test without telling the people that some of those special tests they conduct would have achieved same or better results using battery acid or coke. I'm sure you would not like that in your engine oil.
No need to check your spark plug, will be fine for years. Every time you unscrew the plug you have the potential risk of over-tighten or under-tighten the plug as the seal have been compressed on first installation. May also risk thread damage. Leave the spark plug alone till you change it 5-10 years down the road. BTW, I go 100-110000 miles on my spark plugs.
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