tonymwc
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after the swap was installed it worked fine till about three weeks ago. no vtec, im running a b20 vtec, it always worked fine, so i went through the normal stuff, changed oil, checked pressure, checked oil lines, no cel's, then i check the oil line from block to head and the oil pressure is normal, took out vtec pressure switch and i got NO pressure reading at any rpm. so i unhooked the oil line from the head that feeds vtec and sprayed in carb cleaner through the port for the oil,and blew air through to free any particles, well when i blew the air through i got a pressure reading on the pressure guage, but when the oil line is hooked up i dont get any pressure??? i am completely confused!! PLEASE HELP MY VTEC!!
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Oldguy
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You should never never spray a solvent into anything that uses oil. You are just diluting the oil and you can cause damage to the engine. When you hook the gauge to the oil line from the block, you are simply measuring the engines oil pressure. The reading should be 50 psi or above when the engine is above 2000 RPM. VTEC needs 50 psi. Thats the first criterion.
The VTEC system has a number of criteria that must be true before it will engage the VTEC. You won't ever get a pressure reading in the VTEC system until all of the criteria have been met. One of those is car speed. A car standing still equals no VTEC. Did you get any check engine codes when the VTEC quit working?
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tonymwc
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i was actually slapping myself in the forehead when i thought about that today!! it didnt throw any codes and the only time it does is when i unplug one of the sensors. when i sprayed the solvent i had valve cover off and only sprayed the vtec holes, trying to make sure not much got in the cam area. the psi is above 50 at 2000 usually at around 30 to 40 at idle. are there any ways to test the solenoid??
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tonymwc
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ok tested solenoid and it clicks, so does that leave me with an ecu problem?? or is it something else??
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Oldguy
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You can remove the VTEC solenoid and clean out the little screen thats inside it. If you are not getting a code then I doubt the solenoid is your problem. You could disconnect the connector from the VTEC solenoid and drive the car into VTEC range and see if you get a code. If you do then the solenoid should be ok. You can double check that by feeding 12v to the solenoid, positive to the connector and negative to the case of the solenoid. You only have to touch the 12v and you will hear a clicking sound. Thats the solenoid working. What model ECU are you using? Has it been chipped?
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tonymwc
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already tested the solenoid and it clicks when i jump it. the ecu i believe is a chipped p28, chipped with chrome.
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tonymwc
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tested the solenoid and it worked fine, the ecu i believe is a p28 chipped with chrome.
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tonymwc
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double checked and its actually a pr4 chipped with chrome. had this ecu before with a 94 that i had then a local shop had it chipped for me, when i put this swap in they said i could just switch chips and itll be fine. (b20 vtec mapped chip) is would they said. it all worked fine till about three weeks ago the vtec just quit working.
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Oldguy
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The reason I asked about the ECU is that its possible that the CEL has been disabled for some functions. Its just odd that you wouldn't get a code for VTEC failure. Either a 21 or 22. The next step would be to trouble shoot the wiring. Check for continuity between the ECU (A4) and the VTEC solenoid and VTEC solenoid to body ground (14-30 ohms) and from the ECU (D6) to VTEC pressure switch (blu/blk) and VTEC pressure switch to ground (blk). If the resistance on the solenoid is out of range, its faulty. All other tests should indicate continuity. Any open connection indicates the fault. If the VTEC wiring was added by the previous owner, look for bad connections to have caused the fault in the above tests.
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tonymwc
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ok finally got codes goin, at first 21 and 22, changed filter, rewired vtec, made sure grounds are all ok yada yada, now im only throwing a 22, would there be any other reasons for that besides a different pressure switch? ive tried 2 now. maybe theyre both bad??
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Oldguy
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The VTEC pressure switch might be the problem but its unlikely that you would have two bad ones. Check the black wire ground at the thermostat housing. Make sure that one is a good ground. Check for a short or open circuit in the wire that goes from the ECU to the pressure switch. The only other abnormal thing I have seen is the pressure switch hooked up to the wrong pin on the ECU if its a VTEC conversion. It should be D6.
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tonymwc
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all the wires are good i even added some grounds to the chassis just to make sure they were good, new freshly soldered wires and all. now i am constantly getting a cel of 22, oil pressure switch. its not just when vtec should engage either. ill reset the ecu and everything, when i start the car, itll idle for about three seconds and it throws a 22 code right off the bat.??
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Oldguy
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I had one exactly like that and the guy had wired the pressure switch to the wrong pin on the ECU. Check the harness at the ECU to verify that the switch is actually connected to D6. The other solution, which I have read about but never tried is to connect a wire from the VTEC solenoid wire at the ECU to the pressure switch wire at the ECU. This effectively prevents a 22 from happening.
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tonymwc
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well i think weve narrowed down to mechanical instead of electrical. we took the pressure switch out and threaded a oil pressure guage in and with the car running we jumped the solenoid and got pressure to the switch when revving but at the same time we also some clanking from the intake cam area, so im guessing some of the pins arent engaging or something along those those lines. now just need to find time to tear it apart and find out exactly whats pinging in there!
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Oldguy
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If you got less than 50psi to the switch then you will get a code 22. Thats the minimum pressure for VTEC. So yes it could be mechanical but if you have 50 psi then it may not be mechanical. As for the noises, thats a different snack bracket. Its worth pulling the valve cover to have a look. Good luck.
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tonymwc
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ok havent taken the valve cover off yet but ran through the oil pressure again, took off the vtec oil pressure sensor and at 3000 rpm after jumping the solenoid i had 40 psi, at 5000 it went to 42psi and then dropped suddenly back to 40psi. but the vtec oil feed going to the head i also tested and had 80 to 90 psi at 5000rpm to the vtec port in the head. so would those pins not engaging be hendering oil pressure to sensor?? im lost.
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Oldguy
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Did you clean out the filters in the solenoid? There are two of them if I remember correctly. One where it bolts to the head and one where the solenoid bolts to the top of the unit. Those little pins you are referring to would not affect the oil pressure where you are measuring it if you are still getting over 50 psi from the pump (ie. the oil feed line to the head. I think you checked the pressure there while activating the solenoid and found it adequate.
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tonymwc
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Oldguy wrote:
(ie. the oil feed line to the head. I think you checked the pressure there while activating the solenoid and found it adequate.
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ivcho_div
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I have the same exact problem that you have described. If you ever got it fixed it will be a great help if you can share some info with me. Thanks in advance.
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superchg
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ivcho_div, Tony hasn't been back here since he posted this problem 3 years ago.
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