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baspence21
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I have a 98 GsR. It has stock suspension right now. I'm getting into auto x and was wondering what should be the first thing that I need to replace. I was thinking rear strut bars so I could intiate a little oversteer with lower rear tire pressure. Is this wrong? I'm open for any suggestions.
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RyanDL
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baspence21 wrote:
I have a 98 GsR. It has stock suspension right now. I'm getting into auto x and was wondering what should be the first thing that I need to replace. I was thinking rear strut bars so I could intiate a little oversteer with lower rear tire pressure. Is this wrong? I'm open for any suggestions.
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It depends. If you're running SCCA events, there's not much you can do and remain in the stock class. However, if it's not SCCA or you don't care about being competitive in the upper classes, I'd start with a bigger rear swaybar and a more aggressive alignment.
Ryan
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baspence21
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So I would be better off leaving it stock? I don't think that I would be in stock because of cai, cat back, fuelrail and clutch upgrades. I read over the rules and I think that would move me up a class. I maybe wrong. From what I gather you know a lot about auto x
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RyanDL
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baspence21 wrote:
So I would be better off leaving it stock? I don't think that I would be in stock because of cai, cat back, fuelrail and clutch upgrades. I read over the rules and I think that would move me up a class. I maybe wrong. From what I gather you know a lot about auto x
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Oh, in that case you're already screwed. ;-) It depends on what you're unhappy with and how serious you are. A rear swaybar is a must (Comptech makes a nice one). After that, a full coilover kit would be a nice upgrade. Other may have recommendations for brands on coilovers. You could do something more basic like an Eibach Sportline spring and Koni yellow adjustable shock.
Ryan
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jfunk
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Hey Ryan, not to hijack here, though it is related.
Have you had any problems with your Ingalls camber kit?
I purchased the SPC front kit- they all look identical to me, with the same basic cam bolt design. But I have been reluctant to put them on because, well, the cam bolt design just seems so haphazard to me? I mean the SPC (and imagine other) bolts appear to be nearly 1/4 thinner compared to stock. I worry about durability first, and secondly about it staying within spec- with a several thousand pound car being driven fairly hard, does the cam stay in place?
I suppose I should just try them. Wiith current suspension mods: X-brace, front Mugen tower bar, and 225/45 Kumho MX's coupled with the already slow steering ratio of the '03 RSX's it kind of well, blows. At my last alignment I was within spec, but you can visually tell that I have a significant amount of positive camber on the fronts.
Just wanting a little feedback, thanks.
JR
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baspence21
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which works better... the springs or the coilovers and does the sway bars help more or one of the other two? I still have to drive it everyday... and if I go witht the springs, how low should I drop it? I know not to go with lowering springs, but how low is too low since you can't raise it back with springs.
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rsxtypesivtec
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jfunk wrote:
Hey Ryan, not to hijack here, though it is related.
Have you had any problems with your Ingalls camber kit?
I purchased the SPC front kit- they all look identical to me, with the same basic cam bolt design. But I have been reluctant to put them on because, well, the cam bolt design just seems so haphazard to me? I mean the SPC (and imagine other) bolts appear to be nearly 1/4 thinner compared to stock. I worry about durability first, and secondly about it staying within spec- with a several thousand pound car being driven fairly hard, does the cam stay in place?
I suppose I should just try them. Wiith current suspension mods: X-brace, front Mugen tower bar, and 225/45 Kumho MX's coupled with the already slow steering ratio of the '03 RSX's it kind of well, blows. At my last alignment I was within spec, but you can visually tell that I have a significant amount of positive camber on the fronts.
Just wanting a little feedback, thanks.
JR
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I dont if this help but I have Tein coilover with Ingalls rear camber kit on my RSX-S. The ingalls looks very much like the stock one, and i believe are much thinner than the SPC. I installed it for more than 8 months, and no problem so far, good luck to you .
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baspence21
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I think that I'm going to enter the Street Open class for cars with 1.9 liter displacment and smaller N/A... does that sound ok, or is that a terrible class to enter? I'm kinda limited with the mods that I've got done... it's kinda like do nothing to the car or go big or go home from what I can tell.
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RyanDL
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jfunk wrote:
Hey Ryan, not to hijack here, though it is related.
Have you had any problems with your Ingalls camber kit?
I purchased the SPC front kit- they all look identical to me, with the same basic cam bolt design. But I have been reluctant to put them on because, well, the cam bolt design just seems so haphazard to me? I mean the SPC (and imagine other) bolts appear to be nearly 1/4 thinner compared to stock. I worry about durability first, and secondly about it staying within spec- with a several thousand pound car being driven fairly hard, does the cam stay in place?
I suppose I should just try them. Wiith current suspension mods: X-brace, front Mugen tower bar, and 225/45 Kumho MX's coupled with the already slow steering ratio of the '03 RSX's it kind of well, blows. At my last alignment I was within spec, but you can visually tell that I have a significant amount of positive camber on the fronts.
Just wanting a little feedback, thanks.
JR
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Sorry for the delay in my post...
The Ingalls front camber FastCam bolts are made of much stronger steel than the OEM bolts. So, while they are thinner (to allow for camber adjustments), they should be stronger than the stock bolts. I have had no problems with the camber kit, even running it hard on sticky rubber in auto-xes and track events. Just torque them to a few ft/lbs higher than the stock spec when you install them. They certainly stay in place.
Ryan
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RyanDL
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baspence21 wrote:
which works better... the springs or the coilovers and does the sway bars help more or one of the other two? I still have to drive it everyday... and if I go witht the springs, how low should I drop it? I know not to go with lowering springs, but how low is too low since you can't raise it back with springs.
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Full coilovers are certainly better, as the damper and spring at matched by the manufacturer. Also, they allow for height adjustments, so you can have a stock ride height with much stiffer springs. Any stiffer aftermarket spring will result in a slight ride height reduction. With something like the Koni yellow shocks and Eibach Sportline springs, you'd be looking at around 1.5 in. lower ride height.
Tein and JIC Magic make some pretty nice coilovers, though supposedly JIC's customer service is miserable. You can also get a threaded sleeve for the Koni yellows that essentially make them coilovers, which is a popular route. Konis are very, very popular since they can be custom valved for stiff springs and serviced by Koni here in the US. The price isn't bad, either.
Ryan
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RyanDL
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baspence21 wrote:
I think that I'm going to enter the Street Open class for cars with 1.9 liter displacment and smaller N/A... does that sound ok, or is that a terrible class to enter? I'm kinda limited with the mods that I've got done... it's kinda like do nothing to the car or go big or go home from what I can tell.
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I'm not sure what classes are available to you. You can still drive and not be competitive with the cars in your class. It just depends on how serious you are about this stuff.
Ryan
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baspence21
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we'll see how everything goes, but I think that I'll like it pretty well. If I do, then I'll probably get pretty serious with it as the money becomes more avalible. it is a trscca event in Nashville at the Superspeedway. I want to preregister because if I do then it's a discount plus my student discount, but if I enter the wrong class then I'll feel like a moron my first time out. btw, I'm probably going to go with Koni's setup with the yellows and sport springs. they retail at a desent price and I think it'll be pretty good for me starting out.
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GChambers
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Don't worry about looking like a moron at your first event. Just sign up for whatever class you think would be best then ask for some help when you register at the event. Also, if it is your first event and you have a few things on the car that are not legal for your class, your competitors will probably let you slide this time. Just go out and have some fun.
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MinimumEntropy
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baspence21 wrote:
I have a 98 GsR. It has stock suspension right now. I'm getting into auto x and was wondering what should be the first thing that I need to replace. I was thinking rear strut bars so I could intiate a little oversteer with lower rear tire pressure. Is this wrong? I'm open for any suggestions. |
- H&R Race Springs (stiffer than Eibach but still not stiff enough)
- Koni Yellow adjustable shocks
- Comptech rear sway bar set to maximum stiff
- Disconnected front sway bar
- Falken Azenis
- STS class
I've been autocrossing for a few years, so I usually beat most other door-slammers out there, except for the real pros, who take autox seriously (they use smaller batteries, tire insulators, etc.). And of course, the ultra-lightweight 2000 lb. 91 Civic Si's are practically impossible to beat in our cars, both drivers being equal.
Also, since you mentioned tire pressures...
Increasing rear tire pressures, relative to the fronts, will give you more oversteer. Without going into all the details of why this is so, just try it and prove it to yourself. In a nutshell, the softer end gets more grip; conversely, the harder end gets less grip.
Here are some cheap mods that will improve the handling of your Integra with its stock suspension:
- Disconnect your front sway bar
- Set your front tires to 'normal' pressure* (e.g. 30-35 psi)
- Set you rear tires to their maximum pressure* (listed on the sidewall, e.g. ~50 psi)
* These are just starting points; as you get more competitive, feel free to modify these based on your own driving preferences
But honestly, before making any changes at all, the best thing you can do is to invite the fastest driver in your club to co-drive your car with you. You will be surprised at how fast your car is when driven by an expert.
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baspence21
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thanks for the advice! the first autocross of the session is coming up on March 5th. just out of curiosity what does taking the front swaybar off do for you?
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sir_nasty
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I have a 1994 Civic that I was using for SCCA rally and personally when I slapped on my H&R Coil Over Kit (around $900.00 for the kit, koni adjustable shocks with H&R springs....) I noticed a huge difference and the car ended up with a cambered front end naturally and this VASTLY improved my cars handling... That was my choice but if you want to drop some cash Bilstein makes a VERY nice setup as well with more adjustment options. My opinion, you're just getting into it so the cheaper H&R Kit is an easy, more inexpensive way to go, plus, if you decide that the race scene isn't for you it makes the car sit/look very nice
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MinimumEntropy
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baspence21 wrote:
thanks for the advice! the first autocross of the session is coming up on March 5th. just out of curiosity what does taking the front swaybar off do for you?
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If you can, try running the first 1/2 of the autox with the front swaybar connected, then disconnect it during lunch and run the 2nd 1/2 of the autox with the swaybar disconnected (you don't have to remove it, just disconnect the end links). You'll be amazed at the difference it makes.
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jjr007
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I put Koni sport yellows on the back only on my ep3, with their adjustability you can tune in just the right amount of oversteer.
I beat an 06 si at my last event, when I got bumped up to gstock.
Results here. http://www.cartct.com/index1.php?center=results/05-21-06.HTM
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