airmarshalg
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I need to repalce the pads on my 03' EX I4 and was wondering how to do this. I've replaced pads on my vehicles before, but I'm having problems getting these calipers apart.
any help?
thanks,
Greg
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4banger5spd
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the front should be easy just four bolts, i did it a while back make sure u put all the shims back on, after u take the pads off compress the piston with a c-clamp, u have to open the bleed nipple before it will go down the back is different u actually have to twist it instead of compressing it remember that i had a hard time till i found that out.i used a square tool to do it i forgot the name of it,i also used a clean plastic hose on the nipple so fluid wouldnt squirt all over the place
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RyanDL
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4banger5spd wrote:
the front should be easy just four bolts, i did it a while back make sure u put all the shims back on, after u take the pads off compress the piston with a c-clamp, u have to open the bleed nipple before it will go down the back is different u actually have to twist it instead of compressing it remember that i had a hard time till i found that out.i used a square tool to do it i forgot the name of it,i also used a clean plastic hose on the nipple so fluid wouldnt squirt all over the place
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Please do not follow the above instructions, as they'll cause you problems.
On the front, you just need to remove the bottom bolt on the caliper, which allows the pad holder of the caliper to swing up. Then compress the piston with a C-clamp (do *NOT* open the bleed valve!!!). Remove pads, apply a little anti-squeal to the shims, install shims on pads, install pads. Make sure the wear indicator is on the inside of the caliper if the pads have one. Swing caliper down and tighten bolt to ~35 ft/lbs.
For the rear, you'll need to remove both the top and bottom bolts on the caliper pad holder. Make sure the e-brake is released. To compress the piston, you'll need to rotate it in (like a big screw) and align the notches with the nipple on the pads. Otherwise, similar to the front.
We have some upcoming video on how to do this, but it's not yet edited to viewable footage. Hopefully soon.
Ryan
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JeffX
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I quickly edited part one of the video:
http://video.vtec.net/maint/brake_pads-front.wmv
Right click that link and save it to your hard drive before viewing it. It should work better. It's about 21.1MB, 6minutes, 32 seconds running time.
RyanDL wrote:
4banger5spd wrote:
the front should be easy just four bolts, i did it a while back make sure u put all the shims back on, after u take the pads off compress the piston with a c-clamp, u have to open the bleed nipple before it will go down the back is different u actually have to twist it instead of compressing it remember that i had a hard time till i found that out.i used a square tool to do it i forgot the name of it,i also used a clean plastic hose on the nipple so fluid wouldnt squirt all over the place
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Please do not follow the above instructions, as they'll cause you problems.
On the front, you just need to remove the bottom bolt on the caliper, which allows the pad holder of the caliper to swing up. Then compress the piston with a C-clamp (do *NOT* open the bleed valve!!!). Remove pads, apply a little anti-squeal to the shims, install shims on pads, install pads. Make sure the wear indicator is on the inside of the caliper if the pads have one. Swing caliper down and tighten bolt to ~35 ft/lbs.
For the rear, you'll need to remove both the top and bottom bolts on the caliper pad holder. Make sure the e-brake is released. To compress the piston, you'll need to rotate it in (like a big screw) and align the notches with the nipple on the pads. Otherwise, similar to the front.
We have some upcoming video on how to do this, but it's not yet edited to viewable footage. Hopefully soon.
Ryan
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XxKrNxStyLeZxX
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Is the part of the video for replacing the rear brake pads edited yet? I need to replace my rears.
Great video on the fronts BTW. Thanks
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JeffX
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XxKrNxStyLeZxX wrote:
Is the part of the video for replacing the rear brake pads edited yet? I need to replace my rears.
Great video on the fronts BTW. Thanks
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I'll try to get it edited tomorrow if I get some time. If I do get some time, I'll also have to remember to do it, hehe. The video clips are going to be released in support of a written article.
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XxKrNxStyLeZxX
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Alright, thanks a lot.
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XxKrNxStyLeZxX
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Hmm...I thought I already posted my questions, but guess not.
What are "brake shoe sets"? I've been going through some online stores and some of them have this for the rears, instead of the pads.
And I'm thinking of getting the OEM rear pads from hardtopguy.com. Do I need to buy 2 or does 1 box come with a pair for both sides?
Still looking forward to seeing the video, if you have time. :D
Thanks
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JeffX
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Jeff wrote:
XxKrNxStyLeZxX wrote:
Is the part of the video for replacing the rear brake pads edited yet? I need to replace my rears.
Great video on the fronts BTW. Thanks
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I'll try to get it edited tomorrow if I get some time. If I do get some time, I'll also have to remember to do it, hehe. The video clips are going to be released in support of a written article.
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here's the rear pad installation video:
http://video.vtec.net/maint/brake_pads-rear.divx
http://video.vtec.net/maint/brake_pads-rear.wmv
for some reason our footage seems to have ended prematurely. ooops. Well, the job was done but we missed whatever Shawn may have said after tightening the bolts on the rear brakes.
Last edited by JeffX on 07-31-2005 00:41
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JeffX
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XxKrNxStyLeZxX wrote:
Hmm...I thought I already posted my questions, but guess not.
What are "brake shoe sets"? I've been going through some online stores and some of them have this for the rears, instead of the pads.
And I'm thinking of getting the OEM rear pads from hardtopguy.com. Do I need to buy 2 or does 1 box come with a pair for both sides?
Still looking forward to seeing the video, if you have time. :D
Thanks
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I would highly recommend that you order them from the Tire Rack, they are one of our key sponsors and in fact sponsored the videos you're downloading from here. If you have specific questions, ask them in the "brake and suspension forum" and I'm sure Neal@tirerack will be a big help. And the OEM pads are pretty cruddy if you have any performance aspirations at all. In that video, we were installing Axxis Ultimates on the TSX A-spec project car and the difference is nothing short of amazing.
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XxKrNxStyLeZxX
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Thanks for the video. I checked Tire Rack, but it appears they don't have any rear pads for the Accord. I will ask for more information in the brakes section. Thanks again
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XxKrNxStyLeZxX
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One more thing. What is that tool that turns the piston called? Would it be unsafe to just use a screw driver?
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XxKrNxStyLeZxX
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Can someone tell me if the 2003 4 cylinder Accord Coupe LX has drum brakes for the rear? I already bought rear pads, but now I'm reading that I need brake shoe sets instead...
And is this harder to install?
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mlody
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I am not able to find a codec to open the divix rear pads video. Can someone point me to the right source? BTW the front pad video was great, very informative and to the point! With that video every Honda owner can save hundreds of $ to do the install by him/her self instead of paying a dealership to do the job! i vote to open a new section on a car maintenance - just the basic stuff that is requred during the first 100k miles! that would be great!
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JeffX
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mlody wrote:
I am not able to find a codec to open the divix rear pads video. Can someone point me to the right source? BTW the front pad video was great, very informative and to the point! With that video every Honda owner can save hundreds of $ to do the install by him/her self instead of paying a dealership to do the job! i vote to open a new section on a car maintenance - just the basic stuff that is requred during the first 100k miles! that would be great!
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the codec is available at http://www.divx.com, but there's also a windows media version available as well. I just didn't put the link up initially because I encoded it with WMV a few days later. I just updated the post with the link to the wmv file though.
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XxKrNxStyLeZxX
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Do you possibly have a video on replacing brake shoe sets for drum brakes? Or at least a guide... I wish I would have known this sooner....
Well thanks
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JeffX
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wow, I guess I never posted the link to the final video that demonstrates how to bed in new brake pads. woops.
Better 1 year late than never, I suppose....
http://video.vtec.net/maint/brake_pads-bed.divx
http://video.vtec.net/maint/brake_pads-bed.wmv
Jeff wrote:
Jeff wrote:
XxKrNxStyLeZxX wrote:
Is the part of the video for replacing the rear brake pads edited yet? I need to replace my rears.
Great video on the fronts BTW. Thanks
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I'll try to get it edited tomorrow if I get some time. If I do get some time, I'll also have to remember to do it, hehe. The video clips are going to be released in support of a written article.
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here's the rear pad installation video:
http://video.vtec.net/maint/brake_pads-rear.divx
http://video.vtec.net/maint/brake_pads-rear.wmv
for some reason our footage seems to have ended prematurely. ooops. Well, the job was done but we missed whatever Shawn may have said after tightening the bolts on the rear brakes.
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Ra005e
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You thought posting the vid 1 yr. later was bad, I'm asking a question 1yr.+ after that :o
First of all, thanks for the great job on the vids :D
My question was, should you bed in any type of pads that way? I mean from oem to oem-equivalent aftermarket to moderate high-performance?
Thanks again and nicely done on the fart sounds Jeff (I assume), af first I thought you added it later but either way it got a chuckle out of me. :immature:
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JV03h
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This is why this is a great site. The big kahuna himself is taking the time to put some vids of this stuff on here. Good stuff. Thanks guys.
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RyanDL
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Ra005e wrote:
My question was, should you bed in any type of pads that way? I mean from oem to oem-equivalent aftermarket to moderate high-performance?
Thanks again and nicely done on the fart sounds Jeff (I assume), af first I thought you added it later but either way it got a chuckle out of me. :immature:
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Yeah, any pads should be bedded in like that.
The fart noises had me in stitches as I was standing just off-camera. :)
Ryan
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Ra005e
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Thanks for the confirmation :)
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kosta112
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sorry to bump an old thread but i need help
the bed in procedure you show for the axxis can that be used for hawk or should i follow a different procedure?
i bedded the hawk's like the package said but they dont work too good
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niko
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kosta112 wrote:
sorry to bump an old thread but i need help
the bed in procedure you show for the axxis can that be used for hawk or should i follow a different procedure?
i bedded the hawk's like the package said but they dont work too good
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This may be a touchy subject but in my experience you really don't need to bed in your new pads. Most times the pads will conform to the grooves of the rotor within the first drive. Do you believe anyone who gets their pads replaced by the dealer does this? I haven't heard of any problems from anyone who didn't bed their pads.
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DCFIVER
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RyanDL wrote:
4banger5spd wrote:
the front should be easy just four bolts, i did it a while back make sure u put all the shims back on, after u take the pads off compress the piston with a c-clamp, u have to open the bleed nipple before it will go down the back is different u actually have to twist it instead of compressing it remember that i had a hard time till i found that out.i used a square tool to do it i forgot the name of it,i also used a clean plastic hose on the nipple so fluid wouldnt squirt all over the place
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Please do not follow the above instructions, as they'll cause you problems.
On the front, you just need to remove the bottom bolt on the caliper, which allows the pad holder of the caliper to swing up. Then compress the piston with a C-clamp (do *NOT* open the bleed valve!!!)....
Ryan
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Not opening the bleeder valve is a great way to damage the master cylinder. While its not common practice to open the valve while doing a brake job it is one of the suggested proper procedures. The other is to simply remove the MC resivoir cap. Just because you're used to doing things a certain way , this does not make it right...
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Bepperb
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If you open that bleeder valve, there's a very good chance that you'll allow air into your system.
And if you're the type of person who is too lazy/cheap to have your rotors turned (which is many people around here), you're usually the type of person who is too lazy to bleed your brakes after the job is done.
So I can see why people recommend to open the master cylinder cap rather than the bleeder valve around here. But as you can probably tell, I'm not a fan of people who don't get new rotors or turn their rotors, then complain that they didn't bed properly.
If it helps, many checker autos will turn rotors for free in about an hour.
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RyanDL
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kosta112 wrote:
sorry to bump an old thread but i need help
the bed in procedure you show for the axxis can that be used for hawk or should i follow a different procedure?
i bedded the hawk's like the package said but they dont work too good
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The procedure we showed for the Axxis pads will work for any pads.
Ryan
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DCFIVER
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Bepperb wrote:
If you open that bleeder valve, there's a very good chance that you'll allow air into your system.
And if you're the type of person who is too lazy/cheap to have your rotors turned (which is many people around here), you're usually the type of person who is too lazy to bleed your brakes after the job is done.
So I can see why people recommend to open the master cylinder cap rather than the bleeder valve around here. But as you can probably tell, I'm not a fan of people who don't get new rotors or turn their rotors, then complain that they didn't bed properly.
If it helps, many checker autos will turn rotors for free in about an hour.
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Turning rotors is oldline way of thinking. Todays rotors are made with far less material and are more subject to faliure in the form of cracking and warping. Turning rotors is simply a marketing ploy in most cases today. Many, if not all, OEM's stipulate to simply replace the rotors if scoring or runout is excessive...
Opening the bleeder valve or remving the MC resivoir cap are both industry accepted practices and do not imply laziness..
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RyanDL
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DCFIVER wrote:
Bepperb wrote:
If you open that bleeder valve, there's a very good chance that you'll allow air into your system.
And if you're the type of person who is too lazy/cheap to have your rotors turned (which is many people around here), you're usually the type of person who is too lazy to bleed your brakes after the job is done.
So I can see why people recommend to open the master cylinder cap rather than the bleeder valve around here. But as you can probably tell, I'm not a fan of people who don't get new rotors or turn their rotors, then complain that they didn't bed properly.
If it helps, many checker autos will turn rotors for free in about an hour.
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Turning rotors is oldline way of thinking. Todays rotors are made with far less material and are more subject to faliure in the form of cracking and warping. Turning rotors is simply a marketing ploy in most cases today. Many, if not all, OEM's stipulate to simply replace the rotors if scoring or runout is excessive...
Opening the bleeder valve or remving the MC resivoir cap are both industry accepted practices and do not imply laziness..
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Guys, you're both partly wrong and I would appreciate it if you stop spreading misinformation on our forums.
First, the procedures we use are identical to those from the Honda factory service manual for multiple cars. It is not necessary to open the bleed valve or remove the top from the master cylinder when changing brake pads.
Second, you do not need to bleed the brake system when you change brake pads.
Third, you only need to turn the rotors (preferably with an on-car lathe) if there is runout. If they're outside the minimum service limit of thickness, then replace them.
Ryan
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Bepperb
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"Guys, you're both partly wrong and I would appreciate it if you stop spreading misinformation on our forums."
I appreciate the gesture, but then you go and do the same thing!
"First, the procedures we use are identical to those from the Honda factory service manual for multiple cars. It is not necessary to open the bleed valve or remove the top from the master cylinder when changing brake pads. "
That may be true. But, if your pads are worn down enough and you've added fluid to correct the brake idiot light, when you push the cylinders back in you may push enough fluid in the master to pop off the cap and make a big mess. This has happened to me on an 01 accord firsthand and could have damaged something (it didn't but that car didn't have abs). There may be fluid which needs someplace to go, either of our options gives it a reasonable pathway. Yours does not.
"Second, you do not need to bleed the brake system when you change brake pads. "
That is true, especially if you don't open the bleeder valves at the corners. But it still should be done as part of routine maitenance every few years, and as such I would always recommend it when changing pads, otherwise it [with most drivers] won't get done.
"Third, you only need to turn the rotors (preferably with an on-car lathe) if there is runout. If they're outside the minimum service limit of thickness, then replace them. "
Or if they're scored, or if they have existing material from old pads deposited or sometimes even burnt into them. Either of these will affect how the new pads bed in. So when people complain about pads not bedding correctly... well... you have to ask.
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niko
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Now let me reply to your reply
"That may be true. But, if your pads are worn down enough and you've added fluid to correct the brake idiot light, when you push the cylinders back in you may push enough fluid in the master to pop off the cap and make a big mess. This has happened to me on an 01 accord firsthand and could have damaged something (it didn't but that car didn't have abs). There may be fluid which needs someplace to go, either of our options gives it a reasonable pathway. Yours does not."
In my 5 years of changing pads have yet to see any scenario that you need to top off brake fluid. Both sets wear at different levels so when you change one set the level goes back up. But yes you should always check the fluid level while you push the piston back in.
"That is true, especially if you don't open the bleeder valves at the corners. But it still should be done as part of routine maitenance every few years, and as such I would always recommend it when changing pads, otherwise it [with most drivers] won't get done."
Good luck getting any shop to do this without beiung charged for a flush. You should flush your brake fluid every 2-3 years, not recommend people do this every brake change because they will forget to do it. The pads on our 08 Accord wear out every year, does that mean I need to change the fluid every year? Heck no.
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