Clarence
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I feel my car hesitates noticeably during low-rev acceleration and particularly deceleration (i.e. throttle lift). Not sure if it's related, but the idle sounds less smooth as well... (probably related).
OK, so it's a spark problem I'm guessing.
What's the usual diagnosis for this kinda thing? It could be plugs, cables, distributor (and lots of possibilities in there as well).
Suggestions?
(BTW, the car is an '95 EG6 i.e. B16A engine, mileage is at 70k but plugs changed at 50k -- I'm thinking they should last longer than that...)
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RyanDL
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If I'm not mistaken, Hondas sometimes have a problem with the igniter. That could be it. Don't think it's the plugs, but as a rule of thumb, I change mine (copper NGKs) every 15K miles. Wires? Could be. How long have you had them in there?
I'd vote for igniter, though.
Ryan
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jkw99si
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I'ld agree with the previous message, could be the igniter, but it could also be the TPS adjustment. If the TPS or IAC are not adjusted properly the car will not idle correctly and it will not engage the fuel over-run routines mapped in the ECU (when the TPS is out of adjustment). I had the same problem with my B16A2 in my 99 Si but it started after I put JG throttle body bored out to Type R spec's - the TPS was out of adjustment and the car would some times hesitate or jerk like the fuel was cutting out - sometimes it came close to a real light back fire. Found out the symptoms were caused by a combination of bad ajustments - idle problem = IAC/EAC, hesitation = TPS - the fuel over-run routines in the ECU tell the injectors when to lighten the pulse helping to conserve fuel, if the TPS is misadjusted the routines will engage at the incorrect RPM causing the fuel to cut or lighten and creating a hesitation type symptom - hope this helps point you in the right direction.
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Clarence
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I don't think it's the TPS or throttle body since my car is basically stock. Idle doesn't change RPMs other than the normal cold start routine. However, the sound of the engine at idle isn't as "smooth" as before. Maybe it's just me... the car is basically using factory items from '95 (i.e. cables, throttle body, distributor etc)
I've heard a theory that it could be clutch failure causing the hesitation -- this coincides with my clutch pedal feel recently changing i.e. to engage clutch, I have to depress the pedal higher. Kinda makes sense...
Could be combined symptoms of both ignition and clutch problems...?
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RyanDL
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Don't know about it being the clutch. However, ignition problems are much cheaper and easier to diagnose than clutch. I'd start there! =-)
Ryan
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Crossedflags78
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...check for vacuum leak also...
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Liquid Boost
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you know, i am having the same problem too. but it happens at idle, i checked my tps and it was alright. the code reads misfire on cyl 1,2, & 3. so i changed my timing to 15 degress btc. and it still does the same thing. anyone have any idea?
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RyanDL
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How old is your car? Could be the distributor.
Ryan
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Liquid Boost
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it is a 2000 Integra GSR. how can you tell if it is the distributer. the problem is that when i do a slow accelleration, it happens, but when i floor it is fine.
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thai92acright
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I'm having a hesitation problem also. Kind of a bog when going WOT but after getting past about 2000 it goes away. Intermittent, only below 25 mph or from a stand still. Any suggestions? Plugs, wires, cap, rotor all have 15k. 230k on the clock. No major problems other than a couple of radiator replacements (cracked upper tank). I think it might be the TPS or a plugged cat. maybe bad injector?
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potek
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I also have the same problem, my car is a civic 96 VTEC, 58K kms. I've checked the MAP, O2 sensors and other engine sensors and it seems to be working properly including injectors. Plugs, wires and battery are new exept that I have not opened the distributor. The hesitation was lessened when I increased the idle speed to about 870 RPM. I also noticed an about 1mm thick of hardened oil with dirt inside the inner walling of the intake manifold. Where did this came from? + Crankcase ventilator?
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potek
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I believe with your message jkw99si, the ECU is telling the injectors to lighten the pulse too early while the car is still moving, it should be when it is nearly comes to full stop or at a certain engine RPM, am I right?. Can this bad adjustments be corrected at home w/o bringing the car to the dealer? I know where to adjust the Idle but how about this TPS?
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