|
|
|
|
 |
RyanDL
 |
|
Anyone have any camber suggestions for my stock RSX-S? I'm slapping on a full camber kit soon for testing.
I'm thinking 1.25-2 degrees negative in the front, 0.25-0.5 negative rear.
The RSX has bolts that are replaced to change the front camber. Therefore, with the factory bolts, I will run 0 - 0.25 negative on the street and swap bolts to run either 1.25 or 2 negative at the track/auto-x. The rear will be static.
Thoughts?
Ryan
|
AZCivic
|
|
From what I've read, the new strut suspension gains much less camber under cornering than the old double wishbone setup. Based on tire wear I've seen autocrossing and at track events on my own car and similar Hondas, You usually want somewhere in the -2 to -3 degree range for your average Civic/Integra. With the RSX likely getting less camber gain during roll, you would almost certainly want the -2 degree kit up front. I'd also go for the larger gain in back. Anything under -1 degree has almost no effect on tire wear anyway, especially in the back where there's less weight.
Also make sure they do either zero toe all around or slight toe out up front. Don't let them sell you on this idea that toe in makes your car able to run in a straight line. Caster is what centers the wheels after a turn, not toe. Some alignment shops are real into this whole concept of making the cars understeer though for safety's sake. You won't need that.
|
RyanDL
|
|
Thanks for the info, Brandon. On my Teggy I ran about -1.5 front, -0.75 rear all the time (no camber kit). I didn't like running -1.5 on the street, but it was a pretty good combo for track and street use.
I'll take your advice on the -2 front for the RSX. For the rear, you think I should run about -0.75?
As for the toe, I will run rear within factory spec (should I go closest to toe out or in?). For front, I'm planning on running right at 0. Toe out in front helps turn in, but tire wear can become an issue, esp. when you live in a giant state like TX and lots of highway driving is involved. =-) I think 0 is as good a compromise as any.
Ryan
|
RyanDL
|
|
Thanks for the info, Brandon. On my Teggy I ran about -1.5 front, -0.75 rear all the time (no camber kit). I didn't like running -1.5 on the street, but it was a pretty good combo for track and street use.
I'll take your advice on the -2 front for the RSX. For the rear, you think I should run about -0.75?
As for the toe, I will run rear within factory spec (should I go closest to toe out or in?). For front, I'm planning on running right at 0. Toe out in front helps turn in, but tire wear can become an issue, esp. when you live in a giant state like TX and lots of highway driving is involved. =-) I think 0 is as good a compromise as any.
Ryan
|
RyanDL
|
|
Quick question about toe:
If I change the value of the camber, does the toe change with it? Doesn't seem like it would, but just wanted to check. If it does, what way does it go? That is, say I apply an increase in negative camber. Does the toe go more inwards or outwards?
Thanks,
Ryan
|
jes98gsr
|
|
Depends on the linkage (how's that for vague). Most front suspension designs don't have a lot of toe change with camber change b/c leads to bump steer.
Based on my mental picture of the RSX rear susp and the "reactive link" concept, I don't think the rear toe should change with camber. It's designed to deflect that springy LCA under braking/cornering.
How is the RSX front camber set? The Celica has "crash bolts" with a large range of adjustment. They're like bolts in slots. I was talking with an autoxer in May who dialed in something like 1.5deg negative with the stock struts on his. Gosh, who needs camber plates?
-James
|
RyanDL
|
|
I'm not too concerned with the rear. FWIW, though, I'm not a big fan of the RSX rear suspension. There seems to be quite a bit of bump steer going on back there. That's a bad feeling to be in a high-g situation on a highway exit ramp that has a bump in it: feels like the back end is very loose. You get more used to it, but I'll take the old Integra rear linkage any day. It isn't too much of a problem in competition since the surfaces are generally smooth. I wonder if a full set of poly bushings back there would reduce the compliance?
The front setup is much like you describe about the Celica. With the stock bolts, there's not much adjustment. Adding the crash bolts will get about 0.75 degrees of adjustment. The camber kit I'm going to test will allow for 2 degrees.
Depending on how the front reacts to changing camber, I'm hoping to be able to get ~-0.25 on the street (stock parts, no camber kit) and -2 at the track (camber kit, full adjustment). Perfect world, right? ;-)
Ryan
|
|
|
| |
|
| Thread Page - [1] |
| |
|
![[home]](http://sohc.vtec.net/elem04/home.gif){kind=small}
![[rumors and news]](http://sohc.vtec.net/elem04/rumors.gif){kind=small}
![[model release matrix]](http://sohc.vtec.net/elem04/newmodelreleasematrix.gif){kind=small}
![[dealer network]](http://sohc.vtec.net/elem04/dealernet.gif){kind=small}
![[desktop calendar]](http://sohc.vtec.net/elem04/calendar.gif){kind=small}
![[exhaust notes]](http://sohc.vtec.net/elem04/exhaust.gif){kind=small}
![[tov forums]](http://sohc.vtec.net/elem04/forums.gif){kind=small}
![[links]](http://sohc.vtec.net/elem04/links.gif){kind=small}
![[search]](http://sohc.vtec.net/elem04/search.gif){kind=small}
![[sponsors]](http://sohc.vtec.net/elem04/sponsors.gif){kind=small}
![[garage]](http://sohc.vtec.net/elem04/garage.gif){kind=small}
![[login]](http://sohc.vtec.net/elem04/login.gif){kind=small}
