picard
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my accord 93 door locks are sticky. I have difficulty locking & unlocking the car doors.
Is there a fix for sticky lock problem? how much would it cost to fix it ?
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CR-V9
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I don't remember what I did or it was winter things.
Buy a small can/spray of WD40 and spray inside the keyhole BUT JUST ONCE. You don't want too much.
You can try to spray or wet your key first with WD40 and turn it a couple of time to see if it get better first.
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superchg2
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Towelman
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I think it would be better to get a lubricant made specifically for door locks - available anywhere that has auto supplies. We used to use what we called "graphite", but I don't know if that was - or is the proper name. You don't want a lubricant that will attract more dirt and I'd be concerned that oil or WD-40 might do that.
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nj
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I'm having a similar problem, but it deals with the keyfob directed lock. The fob itself works, but the driver's side door does,'t lock or unlock. When I push the button, the lock makes a faint grinding sound, like it's trying to unlock, then stops, so I need to manually unlock the doors. Any suggestions? Will the WD40 idea work for me too?
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CR-V9
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Towelman wrote:
I think it would be better to get a lubricant made specifically for door locks - available anywhere that has auto supplies. We used to use what we called "graphite", but I don't know if that was - or is the proper name. You don't want a lubricant that will attract more dirt and I'd be concerned that oil or WD-40 might do that.
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@nj, I didn't think of the power lock. My guess is it's probably the solenoid but don't quote me on. Thing is you'd have to open the inner door panel to see how it is doing. Maybe the linkage from the solenoid is sticky or dirty or partially broke. And other thing is that if your car is old like picard those plastic snap fastner-pieces to hold door are brittle. So when you remove the door panel you will probably break 1/3rd of them.
One time my driver's side power window didn't work. It sounded like the motor was getting weak. So I kind of guessed it and bought a used motor because I didn't want to open the dooe panel twice. But I found that the motor was fine but teeth on one of the gears were broke and stuck inside the feeding tube. So now I had to get the whole motor drive asy. So I ended up openning it up three times(actually 4 but who's counting) and spent more money.
If I were to fix it myself I'd check the web first to see what is the most likely cause. Or I'd open/remove the inner door panel to see what causing it. It's all up to you, how much time you have, how comfortable you're around your car or you'd not mind to spend some money.
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FiSH-Chan
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To OP : I did the WD40 thing to my door key locks when they got sticky and gummy after 25 years, and they work fine after that. It fixes the stickiness problem, but it is not 100%, but did not have any problem with it right up until someone crashed into the car (which is something like 3 years after the WD40 fix).
Your result may vary.
nj wrote:
I'm having a similar problem, but it deals with the keyfob directed lock. The fob itself works, but the driver's side door does,'t lock or unlock. When I push the button, the lock makes a faint grinding sound, like it's trying to unlock, then stops, so I need to manually unlock the doors. Any suggestions? Will the WD40 idea work for me too?
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Maybe yours is a lock motor problem with worn gears rather than the keyhole problem.
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Grace141
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nj wrote:
I'm having a similar problem, but it deals with the keyfob directed lock. The fob itself works, but the driver's side door does,'t lock or unlock. When I push the button, the lock makes a faint grinding sound, like it's trying to unlock, then stops, so I need to manually unlock the doors. Any suggestions? Will the WD40 idea work for me too?
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If the problem began with the driver's door power lock working sporadically and then it stopped working completely, and now you push the button, the lock makes the usual noise and the button moves only slightly with that grinding sound you mentioned, it's similar to my '04 Accord's driver's door lock actuator having failed. The driver's door remains locked while the others unlock. It's a common problem mentioned on Accord forums and the part isn't expensive. I ordered my replacement through my local dealer's parts department, $25 US if my memory is correct. If you can unlock the driver's door with the key and you feel no binding or resistance it's the actuator. It's not a difficult replacement but the latch assembly is in an area of the door where you can scratch and cut your hands a bit getting to it.
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Grace141
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A how-to for replacing a lock actuator on an Accord Hybrid:
http://www.greenhybrid.com/discuss/f27/how-guide-replacing-your-power-door-lock-actuator-hah-21153/
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Grace141
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picard wrote:
my accord 93 door locks are sticky. I have difficulty locking & unlocking the car doors.
Is there a fix for sticky lock problem? how much would it cost to fix it ?
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Picard, if you're having similar problems with locking and unlocking both front doors you might need a replacement key(s) made, especially if you can make the locks turn by moving the key around while trying to turn it. Keys do wear down over time.
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CR-V9
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Confession of an old bad treeshade mechanic.
I used to work on my cars but not because I wanted to mod them, sometimes, but I had to. Basic stuff, nothing major but I kind of enjoyed it eventhough it was always terrifying everytime I worked on. I wasn't good at all. I usually had to work on the same thing twice, 3 times or 4 times. One to see how it is, 2nd time to try to fix it and 3rd time or 4th to fixe something I did wrong.
As I said I kind of enjoyed it because it was mechanical stuff. It was kind of you could learn slowly as you go along and you can see what is actually happening or see what you're doing. It was more intuitive or natural, and it's technical so you do get better. I was so excited when Sam from 'Shadetree Mechanics', a tv show, showed his special techinics to adjust timing and angles on distributer with a point and what that was called(?)
Thing is that everything is electronics now. Nothing interests me anymore when I open the bonnet of my car. I have no clue. Looks neat but eerything is sensors and wires. You can't even find the distributor anymore. WTF is that?
So when picard asked about the sticky lock I kind of assumed turning key to open or lock. But nobody uses their key to lock unlock the door anymore, don't they? I still lock my car with my key because I don't trust the remote thing and I want to lock my car with my hand. And I used to leave my keys in the car and lock it. It's my personal thing.
My point is that I don't see anybody working on their cars anymore. I rarely see anybody when I go to sears hardware section of Automobile. It seems car itself becoming a distant thing, inhuman sort of thing you can't relate to. So we talk about intangibly about it on the net. I don't know. I'm mumbling now.
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superchg2
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Grace141
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CR-V9 wrote:
Confession of an old bad treeshade mechanic...
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I think I know what you're getting at. I think to a large degree the parts on cars today just don't have a fascinating appearance to them. Sure, they work but they don't have a purposeful appearance about them. Several years ago I found an early 1970's vintage aftermarket electronic ignition control module, coil and amplifier set at a swap meet. Aluminum castings with cooling fins and cool logo stickers. The parts look great on my workbench. Can't say the same about a modern coil pack or sensor. The rewarding sense of working with cool parts is just not there anymore. The lock actuator I mentioned above looks like it could be from a vacuum cleaner or coffee maker.
I think there is still room for a person to be a shadetree mechanic, and Hondas are fairly simple to work on and user friendly. Routine repairs are actually easier today because cars are more and more designed to be assembled and repaired quickly and cheaply. Also, the plastics used are vastly improved so the risk of breaking things is reduced. I've been curious about changing the spark plugs on our RDX so I recently removed the intercooler shroud to take a peek underneath. A few hose clamps, a couple of bolts, and bing the cooler comes off. It doesn't mean I know what I'm doing there but I should be able to move forward until I hit a road block, and I'll find an exploded diagram online before I start anyway. I don't have the free time these days to rebuild an engine but I can still do moderate repairs and maintenance, plus I have a strange fascination with opening Honda parts boxes.
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CR-V9
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Main reason I don't work on my car is my back. It went really bad teice. I'm afraid to work on cars after the 2nd time.
I tried so hard not to bend down too long when I changed a thermostat on my old Mazda several years, ago. I did it because I thought it was one of the easiest things to do. But I broke the connector of some kind of thermo sensor because my socket was a bit too long and kind of pushing it. It was winter. It always is in winter when a thermostat breaks, isn't it? It was cold and the car was old so plastic/connector was hard. And of course it was a dealer item. So now a 15 min job became a 3 day job. I don't even change oil & a filter anymore. I'd dare go under the car. I'm afraid I will ever get up from there.
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FiSH-Chan
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Grace141 wrote:
Picard, if you're having similar problems with locking and unlocking both front doors you might need a replacement key(s) made, especially if you can make the locks turn by moving the key around while trying to turn it. Keys do wear down over time.
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Unless Honda changed the material in their keys for the 93 Accord (or any Honda model after the 84 one), or OP likes to dip his keys in wet sand before putting it into the keyhole, I'm PRETTY sure those keys & lock will last for a while well into 2020.
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