Vtechs_poppin
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I bought a near mint 1998 accord coupe 4cyl vtech with a good body and good engine but the last owner told me a clutch in the transmission went bad that's why I paid $1000 which too me was a great deal even if I had to put another 1000 in the car .
problem: shifts wild and at some points it acts as if it's in neutral and rPms real high then goes back into gear and the problem persistantly repeats , and after awhile driving he car It will stop moving in any gear inorder to even move a inch in which ever gear I have to gas it to the red line of the Rpms
Any ideas ? I'd really appreciate the help
Thank you
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superchg2
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Vtechs_poppin wrote:
I bought a near mint 1998 accord coupe 4cyl vtech with a good body and good engine but the last owner told me a clutch in the transmission went bad that's why I paid $1000 which too me was a great deal even if I had to put another 1000 in the car .
problem: shifts wild and at some points it acts as if it's in neutral and rPms real high then goes back into gear and the problem persistantly repeats , and after awhile driving he car It will stop moving in any gear inorder to even move a inch in which ever gear I have to gas it to the red line of the Rpms
Any ideas ? I'd really appreciate the help
Thank you
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Sounds like it needs a new transmission.
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FiSH-Chan
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Vtechs_poppin wrote:
I bought a near mint 1998 accord coupe 4cyl vtech with a good body and good engine but the last owner told me a clutch in the transmission went bad that's why I paid $1000 which too me was a great deal even if I had to put another 1000 in the car .
problem: shifts wild and at some points it acts as if it's in neutral and rPms real high then goes back into gear and the problem persistantly repeats , and after awhile driving he car It will stop moving in any gear inorder to even move a inch in which ever gear I have to gas it to the red line of the Rpms
Any ideas ? I'd really appreciate the help
Thank you
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Did you change the clutch because he did say the clutch went bad..
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typer_801
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Did you replace the clutch that the previous owner indicated was bad?!?
A failed clutch/pressure plate could cause these symptoms. And it's not a $1000 job. Maybe $500-600 at the dealer, <$250 DIY.
Vtechs_poppin wrote:
I bought a near mint 1998 accord coupe 4cyl vtech with a good body and good engine but the last owner told me a clutch in the transmission went bad that's why I paid $1000 which too me was a great deal even if I had to put another 1000 in the car .
problem: shifts wild and at some points it acts as if it's in neutral and rPms real high then goes back into gear and the problem persistantly repeats , and after awhile driving he car It will stop moving in any gear inorder to even move a inch in which ever gear I have to gas it to the red line of the Rpms
Any ideas ? I'd really appreciate the help
Thank you
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Vtechs_poppin
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Well the lady said she had the transmission rebuilt and that the clutches inside Of the transmission are bad, I highly doubt I need a complete new transmission but I'm not to savvy about transmissions, but like i said when it's getting it's first start of the day when the engines cold the trannys manageable and drivable but after extended use it Rpms as if it was in neutral and moves very little but if u leave the car off and return to it, it begins working again
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superchg2
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So, you're describing an automatic. Is that correct?
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Vtechs_poppin
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Automatic sorry
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93 Accord
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It has a bad transmission. Period.
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superchg2
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The tranny is toast!
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Vtechs_poppin
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Got a diagnosis and it was the '2nd Clutch Pressure switch' and a 'Lock up control solenoid valve/shift control solenoid valve a assembly' , should I replace the two parts or getting a new tranny would be better , I'll end up spending 200-300 replacing those two parts , and I don't think I burnt my transmission considering it drives normal until it builds up and doesn't move in any gear. Suggestions ?
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cksi1372
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Vtechs_poppin wrote:
Got a diagnosis and it was the '2nd Clutch Pressure switch' and a 'Lock up control solenoid valve/shift control solenoid valve a assembly' , should I replace the two parts or getting a new tranny would be better , I'll end up spending 200-300 replacing those two parts , and I don't think I burnt my transmission considering it drives normal until it builds up and doesn't move in any gear. Suggestions ?
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We had the same problem with our 98 4 cyl Accord and bottom line is we were told to get a new trans by our good friends father who is a mechanic. I'm assuming your CEL comes on as well? If you're a "gambler" you can try the low cost method first, but it's probably a lost cause and a waste of money.
Ours went at 110k miles and I had rebuilt (not a new trans or Honda rebuild) for $1800. I got another 30k miles or so and had the same symptoms come up again...just past the warranty, of course, and decided to dump the car. Hindsight should have just ponied up for a new/rebuilt from Honda.
The same thing happened to our 01 Civic LX coupe last year at about 82k miles and we got a new trans from Honda (rebuilt by them) for about $2k and a friend (mechanic) and I installed. Kids car and seems to run fine to this point.
Bottom line, 4 cyl trans in that timeframe (98-2002ish) sucked, IMO and there was a recall on some of them...of course, ours fell outside the recall. Called Honda corporate and did the dance...worth a shot, but got denied. Really soured my perception of quality by Honda and went 6 speed manual Civic Si when dumping the Accord in 08.
Good luck, but your best bet is a new trans.
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enemy
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The clutch pressure solenoids screens are likely completely clogged.
The clutch pressure solenoid is underneath the battery tray. Get a new paper gasket from the dealer, remove the solenoid pack, and clean out the screens.
There is also a solenoid pack directly above the transmission. Pull that one too, and clear the screens. You may be able to get away with reusing that gasket, depending on how dry the rubber is.
Change the transmission fluid (drain, run through gears and refill 3x). Put a Magnefine external filter on the transmission.
This may get the car going for now, but eventually you may need a new tranny. The labor above will run you around $100 for the new gasket and fluid. I think its worth a shot.
I've had intermittent slippage problems with my 2000 EX Auto starting at 100k miles. First fluid changes fixed it, but I didn't know about the solenoid screens. Once I discovered the solenoid clogging issue, I started clearing the screens every 30K miles. The car is still at 200k miles now. It still slips under hard acceleration (owing to poor maintenance when newer, no doubt), but my commute is so short I don't care. I just manually select a gear if I need to really press on it.
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Vtechs_poppin
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enemy wrote:
The clutch pressure solenoids screens are likely completely clogged.
The clutch pressure solenoid is underneath the battery tray. Get a new paper gasket from the dealer, remove the solenoid pack, and clean out the screens.
There is also a solenoid pack directly above the transmission. Pull that one too, and clear the screens. You may be able to get away with reusing that gasket, depending on how dry the rubber is.
What tools do I need this is my first Honda , I'm
Gonna gamble it and replace the parts
Change the transmission fluid (drain, run through gears and refill 3x). Put a Magnefine external filter on the transmission.
This may get the car going for now, but eventually you may need a new tranny. The labor above will run you around $100 for the new gasket and fluid. I think its worth a shot.
I've had intermittent slippage problems with my 2000 EX Auto starting at 100k miles. First fluid changes fixed it, but I didn't know about the solenoid screens. Once I discovered the solenoid clogging issue, I started clearing the screens every 30K miles. The car is still at 200k miles now. It still slips under hard acceleration (owing to poor maintenance when newer, no doubt), but my commute is so short I don't care. I just manually select a gear if I need to really press on it.
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enemy
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Vtechs_poppin wrote:
What tools do I need this is my first Honda , I'm
Gonna gamble it and replace the parts
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Routine oil change tools (including the transmission crush washer and a funnel with a small opening to refill the transmission), and a complete socket set. None of it is difficult if you have average mechanical ability. If the paper gasket for the solenoid set is stuck, you'll need something to scrape it off the mating surface. I used a sharp wood chisel. If possible, I recommend putting the magnefine on the transmission fluid out line to the cooler. The reason being, you don't want whatever gunk that flows through it to contaminate the cooler. Good luck.
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